618. Thursday 10th January 2020. Maroubra, Barangaroo, Wollongong and Port Macquarie…

Too many photos this week so I have to split the post in two.

Monday 6^th January

Today was the day we planned to do the Maroubra to Malabar clifftop walk.

The walk begins.

The weather was kind, it was overcast and a coolish breeze was blowing from the south.

Sandstone cliffs at South Maroubra

We were ready to roll. Enid, Bev, Pete were ready. My back was not.

Sandstone wall at South Maroubra and beginning of the Malabar walk.

I walked the first 600 metres with them on some uneven ground. That was uncomfortable. The start of the walk is on a beautiful flat walkway suspended above the coastal heath. So far I thought I could make it. Then the path finished and from there it was all rough uneven ground across rock and with tree roots and foot tripping obstacle. Regrettably I had to say goodbye to the others and watch them continue the adventure.

I returned to South Maroubra where I spent so many days surfing and laying around on the beach all those years ago. The rough almost natural rock pools were the same as was the rip beside the rocks which I used to paddle out beyond the breakers.

Natural Rock pools at South Maroubra.

I watched as other surfers used the same rip to their advantage.

The surf cub is much larger and a raised pathway now connects South Maroubra with Maroubra. The promenade has been extended with lighting and the surf club also extended. However any fond memories I had of Maroubra were shattered when I noticed all the stains on the promenade, pathways and steps.

Maroubra Promenade

Across the street where all the food shops. They look untidy, old and uninviting. In fact the entire area was depressing. I loved this place. Now I no longer have any feelings for it.

The others arrived back at the carpark and we had a picnic lunch. They shared their adventures and I shared my disappointment in not being to go with them and the run down state of Maroubra.

C’est la gare.   Que Sera, Sera

 

Tuesday 7^th January

Enid, Bev and I had a long day. We took the train to Central Station and walked to our Aunt Gwen’s flat at Redfern. We had morning tea with her, talked about the past, the present and as she is 96 her desire to reach 100.

And so say all of us!

Back at Central we decided to take the Light Rail or Tram to Wynyard station.    https://sydneylightrail.transport.nsw.gov.au/   The light rail has been operating for three weeks. Given that it has to use the same roadway as buses and cars the trip was a little slow but it was quite comfortable and had regular information about destinations and links to other transport options.

Once at Wynyard I was gob smacked by the changes that have taken place and still taking place since I was there last century.

We followed the direction signs to Barrangaroo a new harbourside park giving fabulous views across the harbour and the Parramatta River.   https://www.barangaroo.com/see-and-do/things-to-do/itineraries/barangaroo-reserve/

Barrangaroo is a huge park which I believe was created in a deal between the state government and the developer of a new high rise shopping, accommodation and gambling precinct.

Sydney Harbour Bridge from Barangaroo.

That said we could only see a small part of the park today as there are so many walking tracks and viewing locations.

Anzac Bridge at Pyrmont

We were a long way from a railway station and still had to finish our tourist walk.

Tall Ship

I wanted to see Pier 1 which was once a mecca of restaurants and specialty shops.

Darling Street Balmain.

Alas only one restaurant survives and it seems to be struggling.

Sydney Harbour Bridge from Pier 1 at Dawes Point.

The rest of the pier development is now yuppie apartments.   https://www.pieronesydneyharbour.com.au/dine-drink/

Still Life sculpture.

Luna Park from Dawes Point.

Construction work at Walsh Bay behind Sydney’s The Rocks area. The area is also known as Millers Point or Dawes Point. In 2009 these terrace houses sold for around $1.4 million. Now estinmated to be worth around $4 million. They have stunning views of the Sydney Harbour Bridge and Sydney Harbour.

Sydney Opera Housde and Tall Ship from Dawes Point Battery.

We followed the road around the edge of The Rocks, under the Harbour Bridge and into the Rocks proper where we finally called a halt to walking while we stopped for lunch.

After lunch we visited the Museum of Contemporary Art and I had my first experience with a Mixed Gender toilets.

User comments

For those who have not yet discovered these facilities, Men, Women, those who have decided they are another gender and those still in transition can be found in these toilets. In this facility there were several cubicles with doors but no urinals. However it was strange to say the least when you have left the cubicle to be washing your hands beside somebody who looked like a woman but may have been a male. Maybe she was a woman who is really a woman. Or a woman who is a woman but thinks she is a male or a woman who is undecided.

She probably wondered about me too.

From here we walked to Circular Quay Station and caught the train home.

 

Wednesday 8^th January

Today I drove to Wollongong to meet up with long time friend Wayne M. Wayne has a new Mercedes A Class AMG Built A35 4Matic Turbo Hatchback. He wanted to put it through its capability by driving up Mt Kembla across to Mt Keira and back home and through to Albion Park Rail where we stopped for lunch at The Oks Hotel. The car is very sporty with uncomfortable suspension.

We stopped at Mt Kembla Moto Cross Track and watched practise for awhile.   http://www.wollongongmotorcycleclub.com/   Just as we were about to leave a 4WD towing a trailer with moto cross bikes on it came into the pit area. The driver was -1 asleep, 2 intoxicated, 3 driving too fast, 4 inexperienced or 5 all of the above. He slid over an embankment with the car finally resting on its side while the trailer was flat on the ground behind it.

There was so much smoke haze in the sky that it was impossible to see the coastline below the lookout.

Wollongong is down there somewhere. Normally on a clear day the city and coastline would be clearly visible. This is the smoke haze from bushfires.

I was back at Gymea in time for dinner.

 

Thursday 9^th January.

We are heading back to the Gold Coast.

Enid and I were on our way shortly after 8am and made good time through city traffic. We reached Heatherbrae on the outskirts of Newcastle as per my projected time line. We stopped for fuel and coffee.

We arrived at the bustling town of Laurieton in time for fish and chips. This is a busy tourist town well known for its fresh seafood from the local trawlers.

After lunch we drove to Camden Haven where we walked to Pebbly Beach and Enid continued on to Camden Head and Perpendicular Point.

Pebbly Beach near Point Perpendicular at Camden Head.

Camden Haven breakwater inlet.

Camden Haven Inlet.

We then travelled through North Haven to Bonney Hills, Rainbow Beach,

Beach Staircase at Rainbow Beach near Lake Cathie.

Rainbow Beach

Rainbow Beach. Earlier the top of Middle Brother mountain was invisible due to cloud cover plus smoke haze plus salt haze. The haze in this photo is from the salt in the air after many days of strong winds.

Lake Cathie,  Tacking Point Lighthouse

Tacking Point Lighthouser at Port Macquarie. Built in 1879

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tacking_Point_Lighthouse    and Lighthouse Beach at Port Macquarie.

Lighthouse Beach staircase.

Lighthouse Beach Port Macquarie.

Lighthouse Beach. All along the NSW coast, salt haze mixed with smoke from the bushfires creates thick curtain obscuring the view. The haze also clings to houses, furniture and cars. It also feels sticky and gritty on the skin.

We stayed the night with friends Tony and Dawn. As always the hospitality is first class. Thank you Tony and Dawn.

The strong north easterly wind was trying to blow me off the hill at Tacking Point.

Unnamed beach below Tacking Point Lighthouse. The track forms part of a rugged 8 kilometre walk along the cliffs and beaches to Port Macquarie.

671. Friday 29th to Sunday 31st March 2019. A trip to Balmain then we fly home…

No Apologies for the large volume of photos today. I took 92 photos on Sunday and narrowed them down to the 36 shown here. This was a nostalgic trip for me and a trip down my memory lane for Donnis and my wonderful sisters.  It takes time to edit those photos, research some information and caption the photos.

Friday 29^th March

Today Een and Shan (Enid and Sandra) had arranged to see West Side Story presented on Sydney Harbour at The Fleet Steps, Mrs MacQuaries Point. Bev, Pete, Donnis and I spent the day at home, I was busy editing 242 wedding photos down to a final 16. Late in the afternoon we drove to visit Mitch and Sam at their house. We were given the leftover cheese wine and flowers before we headed off to see a concert in the park outside Sutherland Shire Council offices. Apart from the goodies we took, plus the extra cheese and wine we also bought some Honey Chilli chicken wings. It was a pleasant evening, not hot with just a touch of a chill in the air as we sat on camp chairs and listened to the free concert.

Saturday 30^th March

Our original plan for today was to do the Clifftop Walk from Malabar Beach to Maroubra Beach and return. Overnight there was very heavy rain with thunder and lightning and some roads being flooded. It was still raining off and on. The walk location skirts a rifle range at Malabar and Maroubra and the walk is closed EVERY Saturday due to firing on the range. WHAT THE!!! We have been waiting two months for this walk and it is closed! OK lets have a plan B. Catch the train to Circular Quay and catch the ferry to Cockatoo Island the old Naval Base.

Sydney Opera House from Circular Quay Jetty 6 as we waiting for our ferry.

Circular Quay Railway Station seen from the busy ferry terminal s and International Cruise Ship Dock.

Oh No! Trackworks are being held on the rail line and replacement buses are being used. We caught the express bus to Central Station, as we arrived the sun was winning its battle against the overcast. There were clear patches of sky. We then caught a train to Circular Quay and found we just missed the ferry to Cockatoo Island and the next is 45 minutes away. By now the sun was showing mastery and the day looked set to be a bright blue sky day.

The Royal Caribbean International Cruise Line Ship, Ovation of the Sea was in port for re-fueling, re-stocking and passenger excursions.

Ovation of the Sea

OK let’s do the Parramatta River Cruise. Nope, not today!

WTF! The ferry has been cancelled due to some works on wharves and jetties. Grrr!

We could go to Luna Park, The Zoo, Manly, Watsons Bay or Balmain. I spent the first 14 years of my life in Balmain and Een was only 6 when we left. We took a vote and decided on a ferry to Balmain. I love the old houses at Balmain. Many are terrace houses, many are made from local sandstone, many are a mix of old and new. Balmain, once considered a working class suburb is now a trendy YUPPIE Community with quaint little coffee shops, delicatessens, knick knack shops and original but revamped pubs.

The London Hotel in Darling St Balmain has been operating continuously since 1870.

This building was burned down several years ago and nothing has happened since. I believe that because it is Heritage Listed the cost of re=building to requirements of Heritage Australia the restrictions are so severe nobody could afford or justify the cost of building. It’s a pity really as those sandstone walls are 45CM thick.

Best of all are those houses many with spectacular harbour views.

Lovely old Balmain house in Darling St with a mix of Sandstone and brick. It has Bull Nosed Roof Capping and even a stained glass on one end of the verandah along with cast iron lacework and a tiled entry.

A modern home using original dressed sandstone.

Once on the ferry we stopped at Luna Park where I spent many a Saturday afternoon.

Luna Park. When I was young it was advertised as “Just Across the Bridge and Just for Fun” It was a favourite place for my mother who went there when she a girl around 1935. In fact it was opened in that year ( 3 years after the opening of Sydney Harbour Bridge) but closed in 1979 after a tragic fire in the Ghost Train where 7 people lost their lives. The park has been re-opened and closed several times in the intervening years. Thankfully the land is owned by a Trust and they want to keep the park operating although it is on prime harbourside real estate.

Kids lined up at the gates for a Free entry, a few Free tickets and some Free lollies. To get there I caught the tram to East Balmain Ferry Terminal, then a ferry across to Circular Quay where I had lots of options. Catch a ferry to Milsons Point (Luna Park) catch a train to Milsons Point and walk or walk across the Sydney Harbour Bridge.

Ferris Wheel at Luna Park.

It was a whole day away from home, lunch was unimportant and we got home when we got home. There were no phones so my parents just had to trust that I knew what I was doing at 9 years of age. Later I took my younger brother, Allan, with me!

Next stop on the ferry was Blues Point which looks like a delightful place to get off and explore. Sigh! Maybe next time.

Blues Point Sydney Harbour.

Sydney Harbour Bridge and the Opera House seen from Luna Park.

Third stop off the ferry was East Balmain Ferry Terminal (in my day it was Darling Street Wharf). We stopped to look at the original sandstone building of J Fenwick and Co Boatstore,

The old solid sandstone Fenwicks Building. A world class restaurant and gallery is being delayed due to the interference of a Greens Party controlled Council.

An anchor on the Fenwick site.

built in the 1880’s and commanding stunning views across Sydney Harbour to Luna Park, The Sydney Harbour Bridge, Barangaroo,

Barangaroo and part of the Sydney CBD.

Blues Point, Goat Island and the Sydney CBD. The plan is to open a stylish restaurant and Art Gallery but as usual Greens politicians would rather see the old building vacant and slowly decaying on the inside. All reports suggest the restaurant will open in June but it looks as though all work has been suspended. Next as we walk the steep hill from Balmain East Wharf and up Darling Street I was mesmerised by so many of the old buildings which in most cases have been tidied up but given a new old look.

A trendy coffee shop at East Balmain near the ferry terminal. Note the OLD Shelley’s Soft Drink sign. Shelley’s has been around somewhere around the 1930’s but was absorbed by Coca Cola somewhere about 1970 and re-badged Kirks.

The median house price is around M$3.1 and rents around $900 per week. The location of these well -built houses has arguably some of the best views in Sydney.

A nice stand out sandstone house at East Darling St.

Part of a charming row of old terrace houses.

Most of the houses around here are over 150 years old.

At some stage this nuilding may have been used as a professional residence but it seems the shingle was removed a long time ago. No attempt has been made to paint the front wall and indeed the wood riot in the front door, also unpainted suggest not much maintenance has been carried out for many years.

Balmain abounds with little laneways which connect one street with another or lead to a park or in this case, the waterfront.

At the top of the narrow Darling Street we stopped at The East Village Hotel

East Village Hotel Darling St East Balmain.

which was built around 1871 and has been variously named over the years as a Workers Club, then The Cricketers Arms, The Monkey Bar and Le Pub before becoming East Village Hotel. It calls itself a family friendly, trendy pub and is independent, that is, it sells craft beers and oh so expensive non-traditional pub food.  Interesting décor and an in your face view of the Sydney Harbour Bridge from the front door.

View of Sydney Harbour Bridge from the front door of East Village Hotel.

We had a wonderful lunch here. I must admit the servings are generous.

The street here is so narrow, the buses and cars must pull to the side to allow a bus travelling in the opposite direction to pass. I recall as a child taking the electric tram to what was then known as Darling Street Wharf. The tram stopped at a counterweight at the top of the hill. As the tram descended using the counterweight as a brake another counterweight under the roadway rose to the top of the hill. When it was time to ascend the counterweight at the top slowly moved to the bottom which pushed the upper counterweight and the tram to the top of the hill. These days the buses travel down the hill in low gear and under brakes and have a large turning circle at the bottom.

As we walked we noticed a Street Library. Now, I must have led a sheltered life. I have never seen or heard of these before.

What a neat idea which has thousands of similar library boxes throughout Australia.I understand the concept began in the USA where they have about 35,000 street libraries whereas it is new to Oz and at present we have about 50 libraries.

The Street Library is a huge Australia wide organisation. Simply you place a colourful glass fronted bookshelf in your front yard, stock it with books and people can borrow a book by leaving a book. Have a look at this   https://streetlibrary.org.au/

I love these colourful gets set in a colourful wall on a duplex.

This is what I call a knick knack shop where they sell old, re-painted, re-cycled expensive items to trendy yuppie (Young Upwardly Progressive Professionals)

Another trendy coffee shop called Ciao Thyme

We walked along Darling Street marvelling at the sights and beautiful old buildings

We walked up the hill from the wharf and along Darling st.

This is the original Balmain Police Watch House from 1854 until 1920 when it become a Police residence for a local Policeman, his wife and 12 children. By 1965 it was no longer used and derelict. It was then handed to the National Trust, restored and is now open to the public and administered by the Balmain Association.

to Gladstone Park where I went to Primary school which was known as both Pigeon Ground School or Balmain Demonstration School.

Sydney Harbour Bridge seen from the entrance to Gladstone Park and my old school.

Official records show it as the latter but locals called it the former. From the school we walked to my childhood home of 14 years.

I spent the first 14 years of my life here. There were no trees then and certainly no cast iron lace work or security grilles or bars. My father built in the upstairs verandah so my brother and I shared the verandah as our bedroom.

The Unity Hall Hotel on the corner of Beattie St and Darling St Balmain. Information is a little sketchy but it seems the first licence was obtained in 1876 but the building may have been built some years before that. I lived just down Beattie st about 200 metres from the pub.

The main commercial hub in Darling St. Note the coffee shops.

We walked back to Darling Street caught a bus to Queen Victoria Building in Sydney CBD, walked to Town Hall Station, caught a train to Central Station and from there caught an express replacement bus to Gymea.

The Anzac Bridge which is one of two bridges which connects Balmain with the Sydney CBD.

It was a long, satisfying, tiring and educational day.

Sunday 31^st March

Up early again. The train lines are still being worked on so Bev and Pete drove us to the airport. Luck was on our side today and we got straight on the scheduled flight.

Soon we were in Coolangatta, collected our car and stopped at the Coolangatta Markets for a coffee and an egg and bacon roll and were home in time for lunch. While enjoying my coffee I sat and listened to the entertainer while Donnis look at the various displays. At this point I must mention the little coffee van run by a happy hippie. I thought the sign said Hot Coffee 70 cents. In fact the sign said Hot 70 degrees celsius! I then noticed all the signs spread around the van saying the coffee is hot. I fell in love with the barista. She told me every cup of coffee she serves is at 70 degrees and she has been making coffee for 20 years. Yay!!!At last a Barista who really knows coffee and the temperature at which it must be served. Oh BTW the egg and bacon roll Donnis bought, was great.

It was a great few days away spending time with family.